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Archive for September, 2011

Spanish Christmas Traditions

The Christmas holiday season in Spain is a truly magical affair. Although it doesnt get going until seemingly the last minute the Spanish throw themselves whole heartedly into the spirit of things and the festivities finally culminate on the 6th January.

The true mark of the beginning of Christmas in Spain is the Spanish national lottery draw held on December 22nd. El Gordo or the fat one is so called because it is the largest national lottery in the world with the total prize fund running into billions and it also has the best odds of winning. The draw takes place throughout the whole morning and the whole nation tunes in to watch the very elaborate drawing of the numbers. The tickets can cost up to 200 euros so many people club together to buy a share although there are those who put aside a saving fund sometimes up to 1000 euros to buy a few tickets for the family. The lottery draw is the moment when Christmas comes to Spain this symbolic tradition has been going for centuries and Christmas just wouldnt be Christmas without it.

Once the lottery draw has been made the festivities really begin students and children break up for the holidays and lights decorations and trees suddenly appear overnight. The traditional Christmas decoration for a true Spanish Christmas is the beln or nativity scene. Just like other countries across the world where Christmas trees take centre stage in town and village squares each town and village has its own belen. Some of these scenes are breathtakingly beautiful and elaborate and can be visited in town halls and churches across the land. Even personal ones can take over whole rooms in the house and just with the Christmas tree it is a magical family time spent putting it together and adding all the little touches. As well as the traditional religious characters and popular local scenes one special character is paramount to the Spanish belen. He is known as el Cagn and to be polite he is a figure in a squat position doing a poo! His presence symbolises the fertilisation of the land for the coming year but of course provides much amusement for the children. Although an important and historical figure in the beln he has been banned from public nativity scenes in many towns by local governments so as not to cause offence

Just like other Christmas celebrations here in Spain it is a time to gather the family together and celebrate with a meal. The main Christmas meal in Spain is held on Christmas Eve or Noche Buena

The meal on the eve of the 24th is the most important meal in the Spanish calendar and is always held in the evening many people wont even start until after midnight as the old saying goes Esta noche es Noche Buena y no es de dormir this night is the Good Night and is not meant for sleeping

Generally the celebrations usually begin early evening when friends and family meet in bars for a drink before returning home for the main event. Like most Christmas meals the Spanish one involves a lot of preparation many courses lots to drink and lasts all night.

You can expect to find a large array of moth watering seasonal delights at the table during the meal. Popular foods for starters or appetisers are shellfish and cold cuts of meat which are usually followed by soup and then another fish dish. A traditional one is besugo which is baked bream but you may also find lobster crab salmon hake sea bass or trout. Then for the main course the traditional roast is lamb or sucking pig although duck or turkey served with truffles are becoming more popular. Dessert is traditionally a selection of sweets and cakes such as marzipan polvorones a sweet kind of bread or Spanish turrn which is nougat made with sweet toasted almonds and has been made in Spain for centuries. The only drink to accompany your meal is cava the Spanish equivalent of champagne which many say is far better than its French counterpart.

Another must do for a true Spanish Christmas is midnight mass which people go to either before or after the meal depending on the time they eat. Christmas midnight mass in Spain is known as La Misa del Gallo or Rooster Mass because the rooster was the first to announce the birth of Christ. Once the meal and mass is over people return home to exchange gifts. Children will often only receive a small gift as Papa Noel is less popular than the Three Kings who arrive on 5th January with presents for all the children. The evening or morning usually ends in a bar or disco where whole families gather to party and celebrate once the family festivities are over.

Christmas day is a quiet affair and the quietest in the Spanish calendar. People meet up for a walk or a drink and while many continue the celebrations with a meal in a restaurant most people are still recovering from the evening before. In Catalonia there is a wonderful Christmas day tradition which goes by the name of El Tio. Basically a decorated log or tree trunk is fed with sweets and other goodies during the few days before Christmas and then on the day Children sing the traditional catalan Christmas song and beat el tio with a stick when he produces sweets and other delights for all the family.

Shortly after Christmas day on December 28th there is another curious celebration unique to Spain called The Day of the Innocents. Although the origins of this fiesta lie in murders of women and children committed by Herod in Judea modern day celebrations are similar to those of April fools Day on a much larger scale. Newspapers print ridiculous stories and even prominent political figures get involved. Never believe anything you see or hear on this day and watch your step carefully!

New Years Eve or Noche Vieja in Spain is celebrated much like everywhere else with a few unique exceptions. It is apparently tradition to wear red underwear which must be bought for you by someone else although Ive never been brave enough to check this one out for myself. Another great and long standing tradition is las doce uvas or the twelve grapes. At the stroke of midnight one grape must be eaten with each chime of the bell or clock anyone who manages all twelve are said to have good luck throughout the coming year. It is a tradition taken very seriously by many Spanish people and while some of us are still struggling at ten past twelve there are lots of people well practiced in the art. Preparation is everything though I remember helping to peel and deseed enough grapes for 10 people last year. You can buy ready prepared grapes in tins but it is not the same somehow.

Once the grapes have been eaten and multiple kisses bestowed the party really begins. Again whole families from the young to the old can be seen in bars and discos celebrating the beginning of the New Year until the early hours.

For Spanish children the best days of the festive season have to be the 5th and 6th of January. While the rest of us are packing away the trees and tired decorations Spanish children everywhere are preparing for the arrival of the Three Kings. In Spain it is not Santa who brings the children their presents but the Three Kings or Los Reyes Magos On the 5th January the eve of Epiphany children go to local parades which herald the arrival of the Three Kings. Each village parade consists of decorative floats with a variety of themes and sweets and streamers being thrown into the crowds. At the end of the parade children get the opportunity to ask the Three Kings for their chosen gift and then leave their shoes out overnight in which their gift will be placed. In many villages though the parade of the Three Kings culminates in a gathering at the local church or school hall where each childs name is called out and they receive a small gift. The day of the 6th January is a national holiday much like Christmas day and children wake up to presents left by the Three Kings. The typical dessert of the day is called Rosca de los Reyes and is a home baked ring style bread decorated with coloured jellies to symbolise the jewels worn by the three Kings. Inside is hidden a small surprise similar to what we find in Christmas crackers. Anyone lucky enough to find the hidden surprise may be crowned King or Queen for the day!

Christmas celebrations in Spain are fantastic and what I like is the way things are not commercialised as they are in the UK for example. Walking down the road at the beginning of December you would hardly notice that Christmas is round the corner there are very few Christmas adverts on TV and it seems ages before lights and decorations go up. However once the fever takes over you are spoiled by the generosity of Christmas spirit bestowed on you by the locals you get free gifts in the shops and free tipples in the town hall lights and decorations appear as if by magic there is music to be heard and people seem to suddenly take to the streets and squares just to wish you well and enjoy the atmosphere which goes on right until January.

The 6th January marks the end of the Christmas celebrations in Spain and then like everywhere else its back to the same old. But dont worry the next fiesta is just around the corner

About the writer:  Gayle Hartley is a food writer living in rural Spain and co owner of Orce Serrano Hams. She regularly contributes to Spanish food and lifestyle magazines and newspapers. http://www.orceserranohams.com

Guinea Border Gpakbleu A Meeting In No Mans Land

last Ivorian Army Post region of Man

Following morning I am up as usual before dawn. The captain and his Army command awaits me and assists me inspecting my car. It looks like it has been swallowed by a mud hole there isn’t a single spot that has not got the distinctive red color of the jungle late rite soil on it. The soldiers must have seen my worried look and they quickly proceed to fetch some water in the nearby jungle creek.
My biggest concern is the engine it is covered by mud the whole of it. I wonder how we made it through last night’s carnage.
While the soldiers are giving the car a rinse we receive a visitor. When I arrived the night before I hadn’t the slightest idea where I was or how far the border with Guinea would be. Now I can see through the morning mist we are just 300 meters from the physical border post that separates the two countries Ivory Coast and Guinea. I meet a new soldier and I am told he is a Guinean border guard. Nor do I notice the reason for his arrival thinking it is a social visit.
Finally I thank the Captain of the Ivorian Army for the hospitality shown and press to leave a long way lays ahead of us. We start our vehicle and commence our journey once more.
The border is separated by a barrier and when we arrive a grumpy Gendarme appears a hostile appearance we begin to guess what lay ahead of us.In stark contrast to the Ivorians who showed politeness hospitality the Guinea ns show the exact opposite. Realizing that we are in Sekou Toure’s country of terror although now his former security chief runs the affairs we enter the mouth of the dragon. Never before have I met such a open displayed hostile rejection of human dignity.
We are to produce our papers passport licence permits the whole lot. The first official is a blue uniformed Policeman and we are being questioned our motives for coming here everything they want to know. Only when we bring out our last trump card our connection with the President’s office suddenly their grim asses turn into forced smiles. They are expecting to make a kill from the foreigner. To suck his blood to drain his resources. Bribes extortion are the key words here in spite of regularity in our papers. I have flown to Guinea several times before to the capital Conakry but now I am on the jungle border far away from civilization.
It takes one hour before I finally make it out of the Police office totally exhausted. Tired of the interrogation tired of the country and people tired with myself for bringing me into this hellhole in the first place. But it has not finished yet as when things start to go wrong they can all go wrong and this is my day. Thinking I have completed the formalities an Entry stamp in my passport only to be told to visit the other side of the road and pointed to a run down shack on the hill adjacent to the station. This as it turns out is the main office of the Gendarmerie Commander of the border Guard.
I wait for half an hour in the office a meager chair and table in the room no additional furniture. I wonder how many before me have been subjected to this degrading taunting procedure.
The Monsieur Gendarme takes his time before he appears and I will never forget his grimace as long as I live so help me god. When he enters the room the assistant hands over the passport to him and disappears. Not one word spoken the colossal stature finally sits down grabbing the passports and opens them to look at the visa. Still he has not spoken a word. His face is the most horrible gruesome Killer looking mask I have ever encountered. A savage pantomime with a huge broad nose and a skull with retracting forehead that I can not but let my mind wander to Charles Darwin’s theories even under the circumstances I am in. For here in the middle of the rainforest the law is in his hand and he knows it and lets us feel his supremacy with every second minute that passes.
Finally after taking 10 minutes to study my visa and noticing my previous Visas for Guinea he utters his first words.in French. It does not sound good as I expected. He simply put it to me that I have to return back through the mud and the hellish road twelve hours for 40 km’s through the forest and nearly 3000 km to get back home. I shudder at the thought. The air is tense my patience is wearing off but I know this is what he is waiting for. He will take it all from me my pride my dignity my money the whole lot. Only to wait for a mistake and he is the King of the jungle. I force myself to be calm instead to squeeze out a smile propose how to get around this obstacle. He is insisting that my Visa is invalid. And who will proof him wrong here. I take a deep breath sigh and start to draw all my diplomacy skills I have learned in 20 years plus living in these parts of the world. Explaining the difficulties of getting here the previous night the breakdowns. All have zero effect. He does not move one fraction from his opposition to me continuing my journey. Throughout this tense moments I know all he is negotiating for is a bribe money. But it was not time yet the ice had to be broken you either make it or you break it depending on your survival skills.
When it comes to my companions who are natives they are trying as hard to speak in his dialect to convince him to soften him. They don’t want me to say much because he is a racist and he hates white people it has become apparent. We have entered the third hour and his stance is stubbornly negative he wants to show this white victim that he is superior. My companions have not proceeded to flash the last card the trump up our sleeves. We were warned by the Presidential offices the seat of the government about such incidents. They know their people they know where they come from. Gendarmes posted in these remote parts normally have a history a dark secret. The notorious Torture Camp in Conakry was filled with beasts of officers who killed tortured thousands of people during Sekou Toure’s reign of terror. Trained by the East Germans KGB and Chinese secret services these individuals had no emotions. With the dead of Sekou Toure’s the camp was dissolved and the officers were transferred the farther the better. Now I was facing such a character opposite me. No normal Policeman acts in such a way with open hostility all his frustrations and hatred pointed at me because he dos not like me.
In the middle of all this he gets up speaks no word and disappears leaving us alone in the office with no result in sight. It is then I am cautioned not to speak any bad word and keep my calm. We decide to change our tactics now as things could get out of hands. A concise ability to evaluate situations is one of my major advantages and I am now ready to go for it.
By the time he appears again after thirty minutes the questions are changing now directed at my companions and this will change the outcome finally. My companion’s family are well to do citizens in Conakry with far reaching influence in all social and governmental circles. A Doctor of Medicine Madame Bangoura is the head of the governmental AIDS campaign and heads the Medical research with all its responsibilities. Her offspring sitting near me never mentioning this fact till the right moment comes. And this is the ice breaker the threshold has been reached his voice has thawed up he speaks softer now. Because he understands that will not succeed with his original plan. Now a change of tactics is necessary and it comes in form of a proposal of how much I am willing to pay for a new Visa.
The ‘Visa’ costs .25000 C.F.A. Francs a mere 10 U.S. Dollars. It is not the Visa it is a bribe. And when we agree to pay we see a transformation that leaves in me an impression never to go away. His grimasses turn to an ape like grin with his large mouth showing his huge fangs. he begins to talk as if nothing has happened nothing ever was wrong no time has been wasted. He even offers me to visit him in his Bungalow up the hill from where he forced himself down to see his victims. I am disgusted but I manage a smile. And I promise to visit him next time I pass by here. Needless to say that next time will never come.
We leave tired confused and now it is the Customs department that expects us. We finish quickly pass through we claim we have no money on us not mentioning my ten thousand Dollars in my back pillow. So finally after three and half hours we are on our way. Getting close to lunch time I don’t feel the urge to eat. I will find some Bananas on the way a safe way of keeping your bowels intact in such locations. Finally when we leave we are stopped by some unidentifiable official with the same beige customs outfit and I am told by my companions to carry on not to stop. Another attempt to extort money from me.
The road ahead is still long and leads me to a further unknown destiny the town of Nzerekore. But before that we face more difficulties for there is no safe passage in Guinea.
Next : On the road to Nzerekore
Excerpts from a journey to the unknown by Heinz Rainer .

About the writer:  http://hwrpics1a.spaces.live.com/Blog/cns!6E473F4E9B767961!628.entry

How To Choose A Backpack

Your backpack will probably be the single most important purchase you will make before hitting the road. It can be your best friend or worst enemy depending on which one you pick. With that in mind here are a few pointers to consider when choosing one.

Size IS Important

Before choosing a pack have an idea of whats going to go in it. Visualise the contents understand your needs and shortlist a range of rucksacks accordingly. The shortlist should contain rucksacks big enough for the largest loads you will carry but no bigger as the larger the pack the more you may be inclined to fill it. But dont go too small either as an overloaded pack may feel uncomfortable and unstable and may force you to have to secure extra gear on the outside thus increasing the risk of loss or damage.

The choices on offer can be put into the following categories:

Daypacks 15 35L Small packs with minimal or no internal frame to support loads so all weight is transferred through shoulder straps. Perfect for day trips and shorter outings.
Alpine Packs 35 55L and Backpacking Packs 55 75L This will be the area to concentrate in for a backpacking or RTW trip. If possible the smaller alpine pack. Both offer many of the comprehensive features of larger rucksacks whilst keeping physical weight and size to a minimum.
Expedition Rucksacks 75 100L These packs are huge. Possibly necessary for trips involving many climate changes for those wishing to carry all their gear from the word go or for those wishing to practice for SAS Selection! If you fill one of these remember that you may and up carrying mucho mucho Kilos
Travel Packs Essentially these are like soft suitcases with shoulders straps that can be covered to avoid snagging when not being carried. They are most certainly an option to consider as these front opening packs make it easier to access your gear compared to conventional toploading rucksacks. They may also engender a greater air of respectability if checking in to hotels or at border crossings. The downside is that they are generally a little more expensive and also bulkier than their rucksack equivalent.

Fitting

Ensuring the pack is a good fit is of paramount importance. If possible try each pack with some weight in. It may feel quite different. Fill up the pack with weight approximate to that you would be carrying distributing it as best you can. After you have achieved a good fit be sure to test drive the pack a little. Lean forward backward and also sway from side to side. The pack should remain snug and not swing wildly or throw you off balance.
Walk around with it even up and down some stairs if possible. Concentrate on ensuring yourself that the weight is being distributed evenly. Be aware of any minor niggles as these will become painfully apparent after several hours on your feet with a heavy pack on a hot day.

What to Look For

Shoulder Straps Focus on packs with wide well padded yet firm shoulder straps. Ensure that the straps keep the pack central and well balanced that they dont slip a good solid chest strap should help with this and that they keep the pack snug yet dont chaff or restrict arm and upper body movement.

Hip Belt Often overlooked a good Hip Belt is essential. It should be strong enough to bear the main pack weight as it will when used properly transfer the weight from your back to your hips thus considerably increasing comfort and reducing back strain when wearing the pack for prolonged periods of time. Ensure that the band is semi rigid and that it has soft broad padding so to avoid creating pressure points that will all too quickly become very painful. On large packs the hip belt is the main loadbearing component so remember to use it it makes a world of difference.

Other Straps Side compression straps come highly recommended. After the rucksack is packed these can be pulled tight to further reduce the size of your pack. It may make the difference between being able to have it as carry on luggage for flights fitting it overhead luggage compartments on busses and actually being parted with it on other such journeys. They also serve to increase pack stability by holding the load closer to your back.

Pay attention to the types of adjustments on these straps too. Can they be adjusted whilst wearing the pack? Are they difficult to adjust? Inversely do they adjust too easily and will therefore change when I dont want them too?

Also look out for other types of adjustments. Although they may seem surplus to requirements at the moment they will enable the wearer to further fine tune how the pack sits and feels at a later stage.

Pockets Ensure there are enough pockets for your needs. Lid pockets are especially useful for carrying items that need to be accessible in a hurry such as guidebooks for instance. Mesh pockets usually located either side near the bottom of the pack are great for holding wet gear should you be fresh out of those handy plastic bags. Outer side pockets are also exceptionally handy for storing items that you want quick access to whilst travelling or when your rucksack is half buried in other luggage and are large enough to accommodate substantial items such as water bottles and tasty roadnibbles. In general pockets allow for a better separation of your gear. If you like a modicum of organisation including somewhere separate to put your skanky pants you can never have too many pockets.

Compartments If you opt for a top loading pack then its advisable to choose one with at least two separately accessible compartments thus providing access from both the top and the bottom of the pack. This arrangement is ideal if packing/unpacking is a regular occurrence as you can put your most used items in one compartment and makes for a good compromise if you were also considering the purchase of a Travel Pack. You may also find that internal diaphragms separating the two can be unzipped to accommodate larger items if need be.

Top Flap If opting for a top loading pack then look for a top flap that will extend if need be. Its a musthave for those temporary overloads and can always be used to stuff extra little bits under when your rucksack is already packed and secured.

Back Pads and Stays These days rucksacks generally come with a padded back piece as standard although better quality versions will also have ventilation features built in. Ergonomic raised ribs of foam will allow better airflow between the carrier and the rucksack. This airflow means greater comfort less sweat and a smaller laundry pile after a few days of overland travel.

Lightweight aluminium stays fitted in the rucksack sometimes removable maintain backpack shape and ensure good weight transfer between the shoulders and the Hip belt. Some versions are smaller and therefore less intrusive than others and will come precurved thus providing greater comfort.

Durability Take a closer look. Check for durable waterproof/water resistant fabrics and tightly stitched seams. Pay particular attention to where straps fix to the main body. Pull the seams apart and be wary if stitching becomes clearly visible. Ideally internal seams should be covered by fabric as it will make them less prone to wear. The base should be constructed from an incredibly durable material or at least the same material as the body of the pack but double lined or double thickness as thats the part of the pack which will be most prone to being scuffed and torn.

Ensure that all zippers and catches look up to the job. Try them all several times to get a feel for their durability and functionality. Are the zipper handles too small? Can I fit a padlock through them? Are there double zippers that meet in the middle in case one breaks? These are all things to consider.

The benefits of hitting the road with the right backpack cannot be underestimated. Sure you can travel with almost any bag I used to borrow packs in fact. But a comfortable wellfitting pack will not only be physically beneficial but will make life a little easier in the long run.

About the writer:nbsp;nbsp;Parttime Travel Writer and fulltime Vagabond Nathan Richards wants nothing more than to inspire and encourage others to satisfy their wanderlust.
He achieves this by regularly posting valuable travel tips and first hand travel narratives on his popular backpacking and travel writing website at www.ubertramp.com.
In addition to his work on Ubertramp and in other Travel Blogs his articles have also been featured in Online Travel Magazines such as Budget Travel Online Backpackers.com Travelmag and the BootsnAll Network.